“Gary Foulkes’s “classy” cuisine – “always perfect” fish and seafood, from a menu showcasing sustainable British Isles produce – maintains this “City gem” as the culinary star of D&D London at present. Occupying the “cool and refined” top floor of a hotel near Broadgate, it’s “a great place for a business lunch, with excellent light”: “one wall is virtually all window, overlooking the neighbouring blocks” (and there’s a terrace for sunny days). “It’s pricey, but you are slap bang in the heart of the Square Mile.”

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